To continue the tutorial I started here, I will tell you about the glues I recommend and why and how to go about gluing your masterpiece in preparation for machine thread painting an quilting.
7. My flower pieces are all cut out and I have chosen to make a background with the three sections drawn in the Master. I would also look great with a light green fabric for the whole square.
8. About the different types of adhesives that can be used – you have options according to your preference. There is Aileen’s Fabric fusion spray, Elmers school glue, Liquid Stitch and Steam-a-Seam (fusible web).
My washable preference is school glue if I’m doing a lot of thread painting on the edges of each cut piece because it IS washable and temporary and adds no extra stiffness to the quilt AT ALL.
(Steam a Seam also allows a pretty soft quilt and is a good option but all the pattern pieces MUST BE REVERSED first…I just don’t care for that step nor the need for using a lot of the webbing ironed onto a big piece of fabric – I fussy cut most of my pieces for the effect I want to pull from it and therefore would be using and expensive amount of it.)
My permanent preference is Liquid Stitch, used sparingly!, for those artquilts with less stitching on the edges.
(Fabric fusion spray is another option but since I tend to make messes when spraying ANYTHING, I steer clear! I did use it making a tuffet when the foam absolutely needed it and managed not to get it everywhere!)
Elmer’s School Glue
Steam a Seam
9. Place your master back on your light source and the background centered on top of it. You should be able to see your master through most fabrics – as you can see here it does come through the green.
( If using black or super dark background where the master doesn’t show through you will have to use other methods of transferring the master – which is not covered here.)
Lay out your pieces to orient yourself and start gluing them down putting a light amount on the edges. Leave the freezer paper on – hopefully it stays on but don’t worry if it doesn’t.
School glue can come out fairly slow – don’t open it much so that it does – allowing you to put a small bead of it on the edges. Put it in place and IRON IT dry. This is a must or it will come up when you don’t want it to. If you do need to move it, it can still be peeled up, re-glued and replaced.
Liquid Stitch is much thicker than school glue and doesn’t always come out of the applicator easily…mine usually dries in it. It can be cleaned out but I’m usually impatient with that and tend to use a toothpick to dab small amounts on the edges. I put a bit more than I normally would on the piece in the photo so it would show up well in the photo, but that is more than you really need…try to put less.
ALWAYS remember to be considering and re-checking which pieces need to go under others and place ALL of them in a section first… liquid stitch is not too forgiving if you need to pull up a piece!
Background pieces on the light table
Glue the edges
Well here you see next is my progression for this mini quilt as well as my audition for the border fabric in the last photo.
I can’t wait to get to the thread painting! I will be going lightly on the lupine adding some lighter highlights to the dark fabric and darker shading to the light fabrics.
The large poppy will most likely get satin stick stamens for the center …unless I end up not liking it and switch to a different stitch.
Large and smaller Poppy
Large and smaller Poppy
Auditioning border color
Select a photo to see it larger.
The pattern for this mini quilt includes a chart for thread painting with color suggestions…as soon a I create it! I hope to have it ready for purchase in a week or so!